Opening Palm Screen [Zire 72 and now T|C]

I created a guide to help others know how to replace/repair/fix screen whine of the LCD and such. In this guide, this is being done on a Palm Zire 72 by me.

DISCLIAMER: I am not responsible for any mishaps or damage that your device may recieve from following these procedures. Do this at your own risk.

Compatble LCDs-
Zire 71, Zire 72, Tungsten T|E, T|E2, T|C, [Not confirmed, T|2]
Compatable digitizers[touchscreen]-
Graffiti area- Zire 71, Zire 72, Tungsten T|E, Tungsten T|E2
Thumboard- T|C

T|W I don't know about.

The pictures are done by me and they can all be found here http://photobucket.com/albums/a267/Legodude522/

Section 1: Opening the device.
Remove screws. 2 on the bottom and one on the mesh. There are 2 more screws under the mesh.


Screws and mesh removed.


Opening it. This is the hardest part with the Zire 72, varies with device. After removing screws, pry the sides open with a flat screw driver or such. Dents are likly to oocur. Best to start around where the stylus silo is from top to bottom, do the same on the other side from top to bottom. Be careful with the screen, this procedure puts some stress on the screen.

Once you open the Zire 72, it should look like this. The copper cable on the Zire 72 itself is the connector to the circuitry on the screen. The seperate connector also shown in the second picture is the Zire 71 cable.



Pry the screen from the top cover.


Section 2: The screen.
Have the screen is disconnected from the connector cable. This can be pried open with a small flat head screw driver. Go around it evenly.


After pulling the screen apart it should look like this. The clear part is the digitizer[touchscreen] which is plastic like. The black part is the actual LCD. Be careful not to break the small cable connecting the digitizer to the LCD.


Here is a close-up of the circuitry on the screen. The large ribbon cable on the left goes to the LCD. The open connector to the right of the Sony chip is the connector plug to the Palm's mainboard. The cable/conector on the far right is to the digitizer.


After doing your required repair, put it back together. This should be easier. Make sure you remember every screw. Note: The screen will only work if you plug it in and then plug the battery back in. If you have the battery plugged in and then plug the screen in, it will not work.


Good luck. If there is anything you want me to emphasise on and clarify, please tell me and I'll add it to the original post.
The pictures are by me and can be found here http://photobucket.com/albums/a267/Legodude522/

Hey! There's my old Zire 72!

NICELY done guide, Lego!

Good pics and good, concise instructions.

So you can actually \"downgrade\" and put a T|W screen into a Zire 72, huh?

Opps, I didn't mean to say that. Thanks for the compliment.

Hey that's my old LCD!

Why was this PDA dissection done over a lego board?

Oh wait, never mind...

Hi Lego,
A threesome of questions.

Why is the Digitizer detached from the LCD if only the back of the LCD is taped?

Is some sort of inadvertent electrical contact causing the whine? Where exactly do you think is a culprit contacts?

How did you keep the screen from getting dust between the digitizer? None of us have sterile rooms let alone bunny suits (oh wait I do).

I mean, I couldn't for the life of me keep dust from getting while I put in a screen protector.

Tanks Lego

Three awesome ansers

The tape is to stop it from short circuiting on the Zire 72. The original ZIre 72 screen had a rubber cover on back and I did not use it. So I just stuck tape on it.

Screen whine is caused by the LCD coming in contact with digitizer. Placing paper between LCD and digitier should eliminate screen whine.

I used a lint free screen cleaning cloth to wipe the dust off. I decided to do this guide because I left a smudge on the screen when I replace the LCD so I needed to open it anyway. Dust isn't really an issue.

The threesome have been well satisfied. Thank you.

Lego,

Awesome tutorial on a common prob.



Q: Where is the photo showing this? I've read this regularly and always wonder how a piece of paper could go between the two without blocking the view of the screen? Are you talking about around the edges? Am I missing something here?

Right now CPU reclocking is taking care of most of my T3s whine, but if I ever open to replace the battery, I'm going to do this also.

Now, if you could only do the same by showing how a paperclip under the LCD will correct digitizer drift, I'll nominate you for President!

The paper would go around the edges. You probably would just need to place it on the top. I meant it as a basic guide to opening it up. I never had issues with screen whine.

Aha! Thanks.

Do you have (or know) any TX shots like those taken of your Z72?

I guess the Lego board is used to prevent smalls parts from dropping away from the table, such as screews, etc.... just thinking for a reason to that!

Great shots of the z72...

I have some shots myself of the z72, due to need to fix the 5-way nav button by putting tapes on it, now all 5-ways works as pressed!

-Nel

T|C pictures. These were done when replacing the screen in EagleCorp911's T|C
--------------
T|C with cracked screen and replacement screen on right. T5 torx screw driver.


Screws taken out.


Remove [1] screw from wifi module[orange] and lift it, also remove rumble pack[bottom right part of T|C , shown on the side seperate].



Lift up the mainboard carefully. This process isn't hard. Admire the huge battery.


All parts. screen/front cover, battery module[center], mainboard on the right.


Screen.
Lift out screen section carefully. Use the above picture for reference.

The photo below shows the two screen types, Sony and Sharp. Sony on the left and Sharp on the right. THe differnce is build quality and LCD connectors. Also the mainboard in the screen section is different because of LCD connectors. Digitizers are the same between maunfacturers as far as the connectors and how they work.[They may look slightly difference but it doesn't matter] In my experience and others, most screens are Sony. [FYI, the Sharp screen posted did have LCD whine]

The funny thing is that the T|C digitizer is actually the same as other digitizers found in the T|E and Zire 71, just that they have a graffiti area label.


Sharp screen closer-


I don't have any other pictures from the T|C on the screen that could be of any use. You may use the Zire 72 guide posted above for reference. Nothing T|C specific is required for this part.

thank you very much for the detailed instructions lego, i cant believe palmone was going to charge me $170 for that. i'm really pissed though, because i didn't even drop it or anything like that. it just broke while in my pocket. I was probibly crushed against my cell phone. but still thas why i bought a leather case. It just seems like crappy craftmenship.

do you know where i can get a replacement screen?

and by the way, what PDA are you buying next (after you sell your zire 72) and why?


thanks,
jamie

You've got mail! My Zire 71's screen cracked the same way in Palm's soft belt casse but was in my pocket. It was in my pocket and I took it out durring Biology to take a note and the horror! I was nearly crying I am selling my Zire 72 because I want to get something else.